
In the annals of Rolex history, the Explorer II Ref. 1655 occupies a unique and revered position. Launched in 1971 as the inaugural model of the Explorer II series, it was specifically engineered for professionals like cave explorers and polar scientists who work in environments where distinguishing day from night is impossible. Though its unconventional design was not universally appreciated at the time, it has matured over the years. With its rugged, utilitarian aesthetic and legendary story, it has become one of the most distinctive and captivating vintage Rolex watches in collectors’ eyes, earning the nickname “Steve McQueen.”
The most striking feature of this watch is its unique dial design. The black face resembles a deep cavern, featuring a massive orange 24-hour hand (nicknamed the “Arrow Hand” or “Mercedes Truck Hand” due to its shape). This hand does not serve an independent GMT function but instead tracks alongside the hour hand. It enables reading a second time zone or distinguishing day from night via the fixed 24-hour anodized aluminum bezel. This bold use of color and functional design was unprecedented at the time, endowing the watch with a pure, task-oriented tool watch appeal.
At the heart of the Ref. 1655 lies the refined Caliber 1575 movement. Unlike later GMT-Master II models, its 24-hour hand cannot be rapidly adjusted independently of the hour hand. When setting the time, the 24-hour hand moves in tandem. This “simplified GMT” functionality sufficed for its intended users, as its primary purpose was to mark a reference time on the fixed bezel (such as home time or the International Date Line). The oversized hands ensured clear, intuitive reading—a purely functional approach that remains one of its most celebrated attributes.
The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655 is far more than a timepiece; it is the primal embodiment of Rolex’s spirit of exploration, a bold and uncompromising chapter in watchmaking history. It represents the brand’s deep exploration into professional functionality, valued for its historical significance, unique design, and pure tool-like attributes beyond trends. Today, owning a well-preserved “Steve McQueen” is not only acquiring a priceless collector’s item but also engaging in a direct dialogue with that golden age of adventure.
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